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Tomatoes 2008
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If you trees are living for two years and then dying in my opinion you probably are having a problem with circling roots. This is why I suggested you have someone help you in selecting the tree that you want to plant. Bare root planting is best during their dormant season but if you want to put in a tree at any other time buy a potted one. For help in how to do the actual planting, then consult with any of the Dr. Alex Shigo books that will be available online or at your nearest library. He is known as the "father of modern arboriculture." The following is one online material on planting trees. My comments are printed in color.<1. BEFORE DIGGING, call your local utilities to identify the location of any underground utilities. Also check overhead for wires or lines that may be endangered as the tree grows. 2. Dig a hole twice as wide as, and slightly shallower than, the root ball. Roughen the sides and bottom of the hole with a pick or shovel so that roots can penetrate the soil. 3. With a potted tree, gently remove the tree from the container. Lay the tree on its side with the container end near the planting hole. Hit the bottom and sides of the container until the root ball is loosened. Or you can slice the container on two or three sides so the tree root ball is released from the container. If roots are growing in a circular pattern around the root ball, slice through the roots on a couple of sides of the root ball. Currently the recommendation is to slice the outside of the root ball from top to bottom in two or three places. You may also need to check the root ball for layers of roots inside the root ball and if they are found slice them too. This is another reason you should be careful in selecting the trees as some of the plants have been kept in a particular size pot for too long before being transplanted into a larger pot. With trees wrapped in burlap, remove the string or wire that holds the burlap to the root crown. It is unnecessary to completely remove the burlap. But if you find wire fencing or chicken wire has been added to the burlap or other covering to strengthen the wrapping that should also be removed. Roots will grow through the chicken wire but then be strangled some years later by the wire. In some climates the wire will deteriorate but in dry climates with alkaline soil as we have in New Mexico the wire will remain intact for many years. Plastic wraps must be completely removed. Gently separate circling roots on the root ball. Shorten exceptionally long roots, and guide the shortened roots downward and outward. Root tips die quickly when exposed to light and air, so don't waste time. 4. Place the root ball in the hole. Leave the top of the root ball (where the roots end and the trunk begins) 1/2 to 1 inch above the surrounding soil, making sure not to cover it unless roots are exposed. For bare root plants, make a mound of soil in the middle of the hole and spread plant roots out evenly over mound. Do not set trees too deep. As you add soil to fill in around the tree, lightly tamp the soil to collapse air pockets, or add water to help settle the soil. Form a temporary water basin around the base of the tree to encourage water penetration, and water thoroughly after planting. A tree with a dry root ball cannot absorb water; if the root ball is extremely dry, allow water to trickle into the soil by placing the hose at the trunk of the tree .5. Mulch around the tree. But do not pile the mulch up against the trunk lest rodents or other creepy crawlies use the mulch for a refuge while they snack on the tender bark. A 3-foot diameter circle of mulch is common. 6. Depending on the size of the tree and the site conditions, staking may be beneficial. Staking supports the tree until the roots are well established to properly anchor it. Staking should allow for some movement of the tree. After trees are established, remove all support wires. If these are not removed they can girdle the tree, cutting into the trunk and eventually killing the tree.
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