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Tomatoes 2008
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Beautiful flowers are the horticulturist’s reward for hard work. Flower beds and flower borders provide color against the predominant green of a landscape. They supply accent and contrast, making a landscape lively and interesting. Flowers also complement most of the features established by conventional landscaping materials, such as trees and shrubs. They can add depth, dimension, form and texture. In addition to their most obvious asset — color — flowers can change heights and slopes in the landscape. Flowers are also useful in providing culinary herbs for the table and cut flowers for arrangements. Annuals Annual flowers live only one growing season. During this time, they grow, flower and produce seed, thereby completing their life cycle. Annuals must be set out or seeded every year. They have many positive features; they are versatile, sturdy and relatively cheap. Plant breeders have produced many new, improved varieties. Annuals are easy to grow, produce instant color, and most importantly, they bloom for most of the growing season. Some annual varieties will self sow or naturally reseed themselves. In most cases, such reseeding is not wanted since the parents of this seed are unknown and hybrid characteristics are lost. Also, plants will scatter everywhere instead of growing in a designated area. Examples are marigolds, alyssums and periwinkles. Some perennials — plants that live from year to year — are classed with annuals because they are not winter- or summer-hardy and must be set out every year. Begonias and snapdragons are examples. There are a few disadvantages to annuals. They must be set out as plants or sowed from seed every year; this involves effort and expense. Weekly removal of old flower heads is necessary to ensure continuous bloom. If they are not removed, plants will produce seed, complete their life cycle and die. Many annuals begin to look unattractive by late summer and must be replaced or cut back for regrowth. Annuals offer a chance to experiment with color, height, texture and form. If a mistake is made, it only lasts one growing season. Annuals are useful for filling in spaces until permanent plants are installed; to extend perennial beds and fill in holes where an earlier perennial has gone or the next one has yet to bloom; to cover areas where spring bulbs have bloomed and died back; and to fill planters, window boxes and hanging baskets. Culture and Maintenance. Growing and maintaining annual flowers successfully requires similar propagation skill, attention to soil preparation and adherence to cultural practices as vegetable gardening. Site selection. Consider all aspects of the site that affect plant growth, such as light, soil characteristics and topography. Different annuals perform well in full sun, light shade or heavy shade. Soil texture, drainage, fertility and pH influence plant performance. Site preparation. Proper soil preparation enhances success in growing annuals. First, have the soil tested and adjust the pH if needed. Check and adjust drainage. To do this, dig a hole about 10 inches deep and fill with water. The next day, refill the hole with water and see how long the water remains (it should not exceed 8 hours). If drainage is poor, plan to plant in raised beds. The next step is to dig the bed. Add 4 to 6 inches of organic matter to heavy clay to improve soil texture. Sandy soils have poor water-holding capacity and decreased fertility due to leaching. Add compost, shredded pine bark mulch or loamy, high-quality topsoil to improve the water-holding capability of sandy soils. Dig to a depth of 12 to 18 inches. Finally, add fertilizer just before planting, spade again and rake the surface smooth. Slow-release fertilizers are especially beneficial when used on annuals. Seed selection. Although most annuals are now planted as transplants, some annuals are still planted from seed (for example, periwinkles and zinnias). To get a good start toward raising vigorous plants, buy good, viable seed packaged for the current year. Keep seed dry and cool until planted. Plants grown from hybrid seed are more uniform in size and more vigorous than plants grown from seed of open-pollinated varieties. They usually produce more flowers with better substance. Sowing seed outdoors. Do not rush to start seed outdoors or to set out started plants. As a general rule, delay sowing warm-weather annual seed outdoors or setting out transplants until after the last frost date. Most warm-weather seed does not germinate well in soil below 60°F. If the soil is too cold, seed remains dormant until the soil warms and may rot instead of germinating. Some cold-tolerant annuals, like larkspurs or bluebonnets, should be sown in fall. Annuals seeded in the landscape frequently fail to properly germinate because the soil surface crusts and prevents entry of water. To avoid this, sow seed in vermiculite-filled furrows. Make furrows in the soil about ˝ inch deep. If the soil is dry, water the furrow, then fill it with fine vermiculite and sprinkle with water. Make another shallow furrow in the vermiculite and sow the seed in this furrow. Sow at the rate recommended on the package. Cover the seed with a layer of vermiculite and thoroughly water the seeded area with a fine mist. To prevent excess evaporation of water, keep the seedbed well-watered or cover with a mulch such as pine bark. Setting out transplants. By using plants previously started from seed, a display of flowers can be achieved in the landscape several weeks earlier than if seeds were sown. Many cool-season annuals may be successfully planted in the southern half of New Mexico throughout winter. Pansies, violas, snapdragons and petunias are good examples. Warm- and hot-season annuals (for example, periwinkles, marigolds, purslane) are best established by planting transplants in late April through May. This is especially useful for annuals, such as verbenas and scarlet sage, which germinate slowly or need several months to bloom. Buy only healthy plants free of pests and diseases. Before setting out transplants, harden them off by exposing them to outside conditions during the day. This should have been done by the producer; if not, hardening them yourself helps insure success. After the last frost date, set out warm-season annuals. For each plant, dig a hole large enough to comfortably accept the plant’s root system. Carefully lift each plant from its pot, supporting the transplant by the root ball to prevent root damage. If the transplant is root bound loosen the roots. Set the transplant in the planting hole and backfill so that the plant sits at the same level it was grown in the container. Immediately irrigate each plant to prevent drought stress. Apply fertilizer as needed to supply plenty of energy for annuals to bloom continuously. Before planting, add a slow-release fertilizer to the planting hole to increase plant vigor. When setting out transplants in peat pots, set the entire pot in the planting hole. Carefully remove the peat pot. If the lip of a peat pot is exposed above the soil level, it may act as a wick and pull water away from the plant. Also, remove the bottom of a peat pot to insure proper rooting of the new transplant. Watering. Do not rely on summer rainfall to keep flower beds watered. Plan to irrigate them from the beginning. When watering, thoroughly moisten the entire bed but do not saturate. After watering, allow the soil to become moderately dry before watering again. A soaker hose is excellent for watering flower beds; it allows water to directly seep into the soil without waste and without splashing leaves and flowers. The slow-moving water does not disturb the soil or reduce its capacity to absorb water. Water wands and drip systems can also be used with great success. The only concern with a hose-end water wand is having enough patience to apply adequate volumes of water. Sprinklers are not as effective as other irrigation techniques since water from sprinklers wets the flowers and foliage, making them susceptible to diseases. Soil structure may also be destroyed by the impact of water drops falling on its surface; the soil may puddle or crust, preventing free entry of water and air. Mulching. Mulches help prevent crusting of the soil surface, evaporation of soil moisture, and aid in preventing weed growth. Organic mulches add humus to the soil. Bark (especially pine and cypress) makes a good mulch for annuals. Woven or permeated plastics also act as an effective mulch; however, it may be more aesthetically pleasing to cover plastic with another mulch. Weed management. Mulch is probably the most effective, efficient and economical control of noxious weeds in a flower bed. Recent research shows that nugget bark mulch allows more effective weed control than shredded bark, and it is just as effective as plastic mulch. A few herbicides, both preemergent and post-emergent types, are labeled for particular flower species. Check the herbicide label to confirm safe and proper chemical use on both the flower species and the weed to be controlled. The listing of the flower and weed species on the label, and the proper application rate and technique must be followed for the applicator to legally apply the herbicide. Mechanical cultivation to control weeds is not a desirable management technique. After plants are set out, cultivate only to break crusts on the soil surface. However, when the plants begin to grow, stop cultivating and control weeds by hand or by some other technique. As annual plants grow, feeder roots spread between the plants; cultivation is likely to injure these roots. In addition, cultivation stirs the soil and uncovers weed seeds that may then germinate. Deadheading (removing old flowers). To maintain vigorous plant growth and to assure neatness, remove spent, dried-up flowers and seed pods. This is particularly desirable if you are growing ageratums, calendulas, cosmos, verbenas, pansies, marigolds, daisies or zinnias. By removing spent flowers, the plant continues to produce blooms versus directing its energies into producing seed. Staking. Tall-growing annuals, like the tall varieties of snapdragon, marigold or cosmos, need support to protect them from strong winds and rain. Plants are supported by stakes large enough to hold the plants upright but not so large as to be conspicuous. Stakes should be about 6 inches shorter than the mature plant so that their presence does not interfere with the beauty of the bloom. Begin staking when plants are about one-third their mature size. Place stakes close to the plant but take care not to damage the root system. Secure plant stems to the stakes in several places with paper-covered wire or other materials that will not cut into the stem. Plants with delicate stems, like cosmos, can be supported by a framework of stakes and strings in crisscrossing patterns. Fertilizing. When preparing beds for annuals, add fertilizer according to soil test results or from observation of plants that have grown on the site. Add fertilizer at planting time so it does not leach out before plants can benefit from it. Soil tests may show that sulfur may be needed. Ideally, sulfur should be added in fall so that there is adequate time for the soil pH to change. Once annuals have germinated and begun to grow, additional fertilizer is usually needed. This is especially true if organic mulches are added since microorganisms decomposing the mulch will use any available nitrogen. When organic mulches are added, use a fertilizer high in nitrogen. Broadcast fertilizer as needed at a rate of ˝ pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Be sure to water the fertilizer into the soil to avoid direct contact between stems and the fertilizer. Biennials Biennials are plants that complete their life cycle in 2 years. They produce leaves in the first growing season, usually a rosette. In the second growing season, preceded by a cold period, they produce blooms and die. For the flower gardener, biennials present the obvious disadvantage of producing only foliage the first year with no blooms. For this reason, new varieties have been developed that produce early blooms. ‘Foxy’ is a variety of foxglove that blooms the first year. Biennial species can be planted in midsummer to force the plant to bloom the following year. Popular biennials are stock and hollyhock. Cultural practices are basically the same as for annuals except the plants remain 2 years. Perennials Perennials are plants that live year after year, such as trees and shrubs. Herbaceous perennials are those which die back to the ground each fall with the first frost or freeze. The roots persist through winter; every spring, new plant tops arise from the buried roots. The most obvious advantage associated with perennials is that they do not have to be set out every year as annuals do. Some perennials, such as dianthus, have to be replaced every few years; these are called short-lived perennials. With careful planning, perennials offer another advantage; the flower bed can change colors as one type of plant finishes blooming and another variety begins to bloom. Also, since perennials have a limited blooming period of about 2 to 3 weeks, deadheading (removal of old blooms) is not needed as frequently to keep them blooming. However, they do require pruning and maintenance to keep them attractive. Their relatively short bloom period is a disadvantage, but by combining them with annuals, a continuous show of color can be achieved. Most perennials require dividing every 2 to 4 years. Culture and Maintenance. Success with perennial flowers is an art and a science. Below are listed some of the science part of growing perennials. Site location. Many of the same aspects of site selection should be considered for perennials as for annuals: sunlight (full sun to heavy shade); slope of the site (affects temperature and drainage); soil type; and the role of selected plants in the garden. This is especially important with perennials as they are usually left on-site for several years. In general, it is best to plant clumps or drifts of perennials rather than one plant. Make large plantings if space allows. An ideal location has a background, such as a wall or hedge, against which perennial blooms will stand out. In island beds, perennials can provide their own background when tall varieties are planted in the center and low ones toward the edges. Soil preparation. Preparing the soil is extremely important to perennials since they are not usually disturbed for 2 years or more. Many annuals can grow and flower in poorly-prepared soil, but few perennials survive more than 1 year if the soil is not properly prepared. If possible, begin preparing the soil for new beds well before planting time. First, have the soil tested. Results will indicate soil acidity and fertility levels. Generally, materials to adjust pH need time to work. Before preparing new beds, check the soil to see that it is well-drained, yet still has some water-holding capacity. Test for drainage in the same way as described for annuals. If drainage is inadequate, dig furrows along the sides of the bed and add soil from the furrows to the bed. This raises the level of the bed above the general soil level, and excess water can seep from the bed into the furrows. However, raised beds may erode during heavy rains; to prevent this, surround the beds with wooden or masonry walls. Since raised beds dry out more quickly than flat beds (little moisture moves up into the bed from the soil below), water raised beds frequently in summer. After forming the beds, spade the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. Turn the soil over completely, incorporating 2 to 4 inches of organic material. Remove debris and leave rough during winter. Just before planting, spade again and add recommended fertilizer levels. Be sure to work any phosphorus deeply into the soil where plant roots can reach it. Rake the soil surface smooth. After raking, the soil is ready for seeding or planting. Selecting plants. It is best to select plants with a specific purpose in mind, such as edging plants, accents for evergreens, masses of color, rock garden specimens, etc. Choose perennials by considering their characteristics and deciding which plants best meet these predetermined purposes. To obtain details on particular plants or groups of plants, consult plant specialty books, nurserymen who specialize in herbaceous perennials, local botanical gardens or Extension agents. For a partial list of perennials for New Mexico, refer to the list at the end of this chapter. Planting times. Generally, late summer- or fall-flowering perennials are planted in spring, while spring-flowering perennials are planted in late summer or fall. However, it is wise to check exact planting dates for specific perennials. Regardless of planting time, allow perennials sufficient time to become established before they bloom or before the onset of cold weather. Setting out plants. The procedure for planting perennials is the same as planting annuals. Refer to the annual section of this chapter for planting details. Allow plenty of space between plants because most perennials spread quickly and need room to develop. Perennials usually show up best when planted in clumps or groups of plants of the same variety. Watering. Since herbaceous perennials grow back from the roots every year, it is important to encourage deep, healthy roots. Proper watering promotes good root development. When watering, make sure that all the roots are reached. Refer to the directions on watering in the annual section of this chapter. In New Mexico, do not forget to water occasionally in winter since the root systems of perennials continue to be active through the dormant season. Mulching. Mulch gives an orderly look to the landscape and reduces weed growth. Mulches are very useful in maintaining uniform moisture conditions in the soil and they variously affect soil temperatures. Bark, pine needles and shredded leaves are common organic mulches used in perennial beds. Organic mulches may add some nutrients and humus to the soil, improving its tilth and moisture-holding capacity. Most organic mulches should be applied after plants are well established and when there is reasonably good soil moisture. Inorganic mulches, such as plastic films or paper, are applied before planting. Gravel and black plastic are commonly used inorganic mulches. All mulches require care to keep them attractive; litter is very noticeable. Perennials should be mulched during winter months in those areas of New Mexico where soil heaving results from repeated episodes of freezing and thawing. However, be careful with winter mulching as it can do more harm than good. Do not pile mulch too heavily over the crowns as this encourages rotting. Boughs of evergreens give ample protection and allow air circulation. Apply mulch around the plants only after the soil temperature has decreased following several killing frosts. If winter mulch is applied too early, warmth from the protected soil encourages new growth. Severe plant damage can result if this new growth is frozen back. Remove winter mulch as soon as growth begins in spring. If not, the new growth will have insufficient chlorophyll and will develop long, gangly stems. Weeding. Follow weeding directions in the preceding section on annuals. A few preemergent herbicides are now registered for use with perennial flowers. Fertilizing. Regular fertilization with a balanced fertilizer is necessary for perennials since they rob the soil of its natural fertility. However, do not overfertilize perennials; a light fertilization program gives a continuous supply of nutrients to produce healthy plants. Broadcast the fertilizer through the bed in March; repeat the application two more times at 6 week-intervals. This should be sufficient to carry plants through summer. Apply another fertilizer treatment to late-blooming plants in late summer. Always water the bed after applying fertilizer. This washes the fertilizer off the foliage and prevents burn. It also makes fertilizer immediately available to the plants. Deadheading. After perennials have bloomed, remove spent flowers. Cut flower stems down to healthy leaves or to the ground if there are no more buds. This keeps beds looking neat and prevents plants from wasting energy setting seed. Some plants can be forced to reblossom if severely cut back after the first bloom. Disbudding. To gain large blooms from perennials instead of more numerous but smaller blooms, disbud them. In disbudding, small side buds are removed, allowing the plant to concentrate its energy on producing one or a few large blooms. Chrysanthemums are perennials which are often disbudded. Staking. Most erect perennials are top-heavy and all of the taller varieties need staking. If the plants fall over, the stem functions poorly where it has been bent. If the stem is cracked, disease organisms can penetrate the break. Stake plants when setting them out so that they will grow to cover the stakes. Once staked, tall perennials can better withstand hard, driving rain and wind. Stakes can be made of any material and should be 6 to 12 inches shorter than the height of the grown plant. Place stakes behind the plants and sink them into the ground deeply enough to be firmly embedded. Loosely tie plants to the stakes using paper-covered wire, plastic or other soft material (Figure 7.23). Tie the plant by making a double loop of wire with one loop around the plant and the other around the stake. Never loop the tie around both stake and plant. The plant will hang to one side and the wire may girdle the stem. Add ties as the stem lengthens. Fall care. In the fall, after the foliage of warm-season perennials has died, remove dead leaves, stems and spent flowers. These materials often harbor insects and disease-causing organisms. Apply winter mulch after the soil temperature drops. Asexual Propagation. Much of the art associated with growing perennials has to with propagation. Passing favorite plants along to friends and trading for a prized plant is part of perennial gardening. Understanding the art of propagation is a key step to experiencing the glory of perennial gardening. Division. Most perennials left in the same place for more than 3 years are likely to become overgrown and overcrowded. They may have dead, unsightly centers and need basic feeding and soil amendments (Figure 7.24). Flowers tend to be sparse and growth is poor. The clump depletes the soil fertility as the plant crowds itself. To divide mature clumps of perennials, select only vigorous side shoots from the outer part of the clump. Discard the center of the clump. Divide the plant into clumps of three to five shoots each. Be careful not to over divide; if a clump is too small, it does not give much color the first year after replanting. Divide perennials in fall so they can become established before the ground freezes or divide when the plants are dormant just before a new growth season. Stagger plant divisions so that the whole flower bed will not be redone at the same time; good rotation yields a display of flowers each year. Do not put all of the divisions back into the same space that contained the original plant; this places too many plants in a given area. Cuttings. Many plants can be propagated from either tip or root cuttings. Generally, tip cuttings are easier to propagate than root cuttings. With dianthus, candytuft and phlox, select second growth for cuttings. Make tip cuttings 3 to 6 inches long. Treat the base of the cutting with a rooting hormone. Leave all foliage on the cutting except the part that will be below the soil line. Insert one cutting per rooting medium. Plant tip cuttings in peat pots and place them in a lightly shaded place. Cover with a sheet of clear plastic. Check regularly to make sure the cuttings do not dry out. When cuttings do not easily pull out of the soil, they have begun to root. Make holes in the plastic sheet to increase the exposure of cuttings to air; this hardens the cuttings. Every few days, make new holes or enlarge the existing holes. With phlox, baby’s breath and oriental poppy, make root cuttings. Dig the plants in late summer after they have bloomed. Select pencil-sized roots and cut them into 4 inch sections. Put each piece in a rooting medium. Prepare a tray of propagation pots as you would for seeds, except use two parts sand, one part soil and one part peat moss for the soil mix. Water thoroughly. Bulbs In the broadest sense, bulbs include corms, tubers, tuberous roots and rhizomes, as well as true bulbs. A true bulb is a complete or nearly-complete miniature of a plant encased in fleshy, modified leaves called scales which contain food reserves. Corms lack these fleshy scales; they are the base of a stem that becomes swollen and solid with nutrients. The tuber, an underground stem that stores food, differs from the true bulb or corm in that it has no covering of dry leaves and no basal plant from which roots grow. Usually short, fat and rounded, tubers have a knobby surface with growth buds or eyes from which shoots of the new plant emerge. In contrast, tuberous roots are the only bulb form that are true roots. Their food supply is kept in root tissue, not in stem or leaf tissue as in other bulbs. Rhizomes, sometimes called rootstocks, are thickened stems that grow horizontally, weaving their way along or below the soil surface and sending stems above ground at intervals. Many vegetables are propagated from or produce edible organs from one of these types of bulbs. Examples include the Irish potato (tuber), sweet potato (tuberous root), Jerusalem artichoke (rhizome) and onion (bulb). Bulbs are generally grouped into spring-flowering (January to May) and summer-flowering (June to September). Spring bulbs provide early color before most annuals and perennials. One of the most popular spring bulbs is the tulip. However, in most areas of New Mexico, tulips should be treated as annuals since only a few varieties return for a second or third year because of the relatively hot springs and mild winters. Tulips come in all colors except blue and are sold by type and variety. Some of the most common types include the following: Breeder - bronzed (not clear colors) Cottage - late blooming Darwin - tallest; wide flow Lily flowered - petals recurve; bell-shaped Parrot - twisted, ruffled, multicolored petals Double - two or more rows of petals Narcissuses, daffodils and jonquils are classed by corolla length in relation to perianth segments. Colors include white, yellow, red and peach. Some have become naturalized in certain areas. Hyacinths produce a large single spike of many small, fragrant flowers and come in a complete color range. Crocuses are usually grown for early bloom (in snow); however, there are no red crocuses. Selecting spring bulbs of good quality is very important because the flower bud has already developed before the bulb is sold. Size is also important; look for plump, firm bulbs. Select bulbs for specific purposes on the basis of color and size. For example, choose small bulbs for naturalizing and large ones to stand out as specimen plants. Keep bulbs cool (60° to 65°F) until planting; however, for tulips, the temperature must be lower (40° to 45°F). Summer-flowering bulbs include amaryllis, crinum, caladium, dahlia, gladiolus, lily and spider lily. Most perform as hardy perennials, and the roots successfully survive winter. However, the caladium and dahlia must be dug and stored or purchased and planted each year. Culture and Maintenance. Bulbs are among the easiest flowers to grow successfully. The following hints may help guarantee success. Storage. If bulbs are purchased before planting time, keep them in a cool, dry place. Temperatures between 60° and 65°F are cool enough to prevent bulbs from drying out until planting time. Temperatures higher than 70°F damage the flower inside spring-flowering bulbs. Rhizomes, tubers and tuberous roots are more easily desiccated than bulbs and corms and should be stored in peat, perlite or vermiculite. Site selection. In selecting a planting site, consider light, temperature, soil texture and function. Most bulbs need full sunshine. Select a site that provides at least 5 to 6 hours of direct sunlight per day. Bulbs left in the ground year after year should have 8 to 10 hours of daily sunlight for good flowering. Bulbs planted in a southern exposure near a building or wall bloom earlier than bulbs planted in a northern exposure. Adequate drainage is an important consideration. Most bulbs and bulb-like plants do not tolerate poor drainage and rot easily if planted in wet areas. Function must also be kept in mind. If bulbs are being used to naturalize an area, toss the bulbs and plant them where they fall to create a scattered effect. Site preparation. Good drainage is the most important factor for successful bulb cultivation. Dig bulb beds when the soil is fairly dry. Wet soil tends to pack tightly and retards plant growth. Spade the soil 8 to 12 inches deep. Remove any large stones or building trash, but turn under all leaves, grass, stems, roots and anything else that will decay. Add fertilizer to the soil as determined by a soil test. Place a 1- to 2-inch layer of organic matter over the bed. Thoroughly mix the fertilizer and organic matter with the soil. For individual planting holes, loosen the soil below the depth the bulb is to be planted. Add phosphate fertilizer and cover with a layer of soil (bulbs should not come into direct contact with fertilizers). Set the bulb upright with the pointed end up in the planting hole and cover with amended soil. Organic fertilizers in wet, hot summers retard blooming and promote disease, especially among gladiolus which are not dormant then. Time of planting. Hardy, spring-flowering bulbs are planted in late summer or early fall, while hardy, fall-flowering bulbs, such as colchicum, are planted in August. Plant tender, summer-flowering bulbs in spring after the danger of frost. Lilies are best planted in late fall. Depth of planting. It is best to check the correct planting depth for each bulb with a successful local grower or other reliable local source. Depending on soil condition, bulb catalog and reference book recommendations for planting may be either too shallow or too deep. As a general rule, plant bulbs to a depth of 2˝ to 3 times their diameter (Figure 7.25). In clay soils, shallower planting depths are often recommended. Watering. Normal rainfall usually provides enough moisture for bulbs; however, during dry weather, water the plants at weekly intervals, soaking the ground thoroughly. Be especially careful not to neglect bulbs after blooming. Mulching. In the winter, mulch bulbs 2 to 4 inches deep with an organic material, such as hay, straw or pine bark. Winter mulch prevents alternate freezing and thawing which can damage bulbs and plant roots. Apply mulch after cold weather arrives. Bulbs may be damaged if mulch is applied while the soil temperature is still high. Remove mulch as soon as the danger of severe freezing has passed in early spring. If mulch is left on the ground after new growth starts, the tops of new shoots will be pale green or colorless, and new stems and foliage may be broken. Fertilizing. After plants bloom, lightly fertilize with a balanced fertilizer. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizer. Be sure to keep fertilizer off the leaves and away from roots or it will burn them. In addition to 13-13-13 or a similar fertilizer, super phosphate can be used as a source of phosphorus. Staking. Some tall, heavy-flowered bulbs may require staking. If stems are allowed to fall over, they will be damaged, and the flowers will not show to the best advantage. Stake plants when they are emerging; however, be careful not to damage the bulb with the stake. For flowers that face one direction, use the stake to orient the face to the front of the bed. Deadheading. When flowers fade, cut them off to prevent seed formation. Seeds take stored food from the bulbs. Moving. If leaving bulbs in place to bloom next year, do not cut the leaves after flowering until they start to wither. Green leaves produce food for plant growth next year. After leaves turn yellow, cut and destroy the stems and foliage of the plants; dead foliage left on the ground may carry disease to new growth the following year. If moving bulbs from one place to another or if a planting has become crowded and ceased blooming, move bulbs only after the foliage has faded. Bulbs dug and moved before foliage fades may not bloom the following year. Digging and storing. Many summer-flowering bulbs should be dug and stored since they are tender. This is done when the leaves turn yellow. Use a spading fork to lift the bulbs from the ground. Wash off any soil that clings to the bulbs, except for bulbs that are to be stored in pots or with the soil around them. Spread the washed bulbs in a shady place to dry. When dry, store them away from sunlight in a cool, dry basement, cellar, garage or shed at 60° to 65°F. Avoid temperatures below 50° or above 70°F. Be sure that the air circulates around stored bulbs. Never store bulbs more than two or three layers deep as they generate heat and cause decay. Leave some soil on achimenes, canna and dahlias. Store these bulbs in clumps on a slightly moistened layer of peat moss or sawdust in a cool place. Rinse clean and separate them just before planting. |