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Tomatoes 2008
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Design Take cues from nature, treating garden microclimates as ecosystems. Group plants so that they support each other ecologically: use sweeps of groundcovers with trees so that there is an extended moist zone for tree roots to expand into as trees grow; cluster small trees and shrubs to buffer the wind and provide privacy; use perennial wildflowers for flashes of, seasonal color, choosing long‑lived, deeply rooted species to compete with grasses in prairie plantings. Whenever possible, larger, higher water use trees should be placed in low areas where runoff can be directed toward their extended root zones. Smaller xeric trees can be clustered close to patios and windows for shade without damaging paving or foundations. Arbitrarily covering the earth with gravel is not good design. Use fine crushed gravels as pavement, a mix of coarse gravels to line drainage swales and basins, and as mulch for plants that prefer rapid drainage and flourish with reflected heat. Soil Preparation When building in an undisturbed natural area or remodeling an existing house and garden, fence off a building envelope to define the limits of the construction zone and prevent unnecessary destruction of the existing vegetation and compaction of the soil during construction. Contour the garden area to enhance drainage, capture runoff, and make slopes less extreme. By scooping out basins and swales to direct runoff into planting areas, storm drainage becomes a resource instead of a potential problem. By mounding soil in raised beds or berms, drainage can be improved in heavier soils. Gently sloped berms densely planted with shrub$ can create privacy and buffer street noise. Where slopes incline greater than 2 ft. in 10 ft., terracing with rock, building stone, or timbers helps reduce runoff and erosion. Loosen the soil well for all new planting. Many local soils have the texture of concrete when dry. Softening the soil enables new roots to gain ground more easily. Only add soil amendments where they are needed by the plants, enriching the soil in most of the potential root zone. Those plants that need amended soil tend to have limited and shallow root systems compared with plants that are well‑adapted to local soils and climate. Desert natives require soils rich in oxygen, and the carbon dioxide released by compost as it breaks down can cause a decline in the Vigor of plants adapted to gritty desert soils. When soil amending is appropriate, compost is the best means of adding organic matter to the soil. Peat moss tends to dry out quickly, is difficult to rewet once dry, and doesn't harbor the soil microorganisms beneficial to plant growth to the degree that well‑made compost does. Manures are often high in salts that may bum tender new roots. Uncomposted wood fiber needs nitrogen to decompose, and can cause nitrogen deficiencies in plants trying to grow in soils so ammended. Plant ‑ Selection Choose plants based on how well‑adapted they are as well as how they look. Group plants of similar water use and soil preference so that they can be watered efficiently. Contrast flowering plants that bloom at the same time for more impact: Cherry sage and lavender, Russian sage and giant four o'clock, gayfeather and desert zinnia, pineleaf penstemon and creeping baby's breath, purple garden sage and bush penstemon, Rocky Mountain penstemon and threadgrass, and garlic chives and 'Rosy Glow' sedum are a few possibilities. Space plants to allow for their mature sizes. Shrink‑to‑fit pruning rarely improves plant health or appearance. For suggestions on drought tolerant plans go to. Floridata - Encyclopedia of Plants and Nature Irrigation Apply water as deeply as individual plants require, and as slowly as possible to prevent runoff. Once established, low water use plants are generally able to survive without supplemental watering but look best if watered deeply once a month; moderate water users may decline without deep watering twice monthly during the growing season; ample use plants may require watering as often as once a week when temperature reach the mid‑90 degrees F. Zone irrigation lines by plant needs. Plants that require frequent shallow watering should be zoned separately from those that will grow best when watered deeply and infrequently once they are well‑established. Use low‑flow equipment such as drip emitters to water trees, shrubs, and shrubby groundcovers, and use soaker hoses for perennial beds or other plants that are closely spaced. Use spray heads only for close plantings of relatively low growing plants such as grasses, and some annual and perennial flowers. Sprinklers for lawn areas should provide uniform coverage, and should be valved separately from drip emitters since they require very different pressure, volume and run times. Be sure that the sprinkler heads used have a spray angle high enough to clear the groundcover when it has grown to its mature height. Areas that will be spray watered should be at least 10 ft. wide and fairly uniform in shape. Avoid using sprays in narrow spaces or raised areas that dry out quickly and are difficult to water without creating overspray or runoff. The soil in sprinkler zones should be fairly level in grade, and as uniform as possible in absorbancy. Use low precipitation rate sprinkler heads on slopes. Spray irrigated areas that are sloped should have plants at the base of the slope that can use the runoff. Routinely check that irrigation equipment is working properly. Clean the filters, check emitters and spray heads, and regulate the water pressure so spray heads don't mist up, and low‑flow systems work properly. Change the program of automatic timers seasonally and as plants become established so that water is being applied as deeply and only as often as needed to keep the plants healthy. Override automatic timers to compensate for weather changes. Timers on irrigation systems can help you use water efficiently because they make it easy to determine how long it takes to apply water to a given depth. The best way to find out how deeply water is actually penetrating, is to dig down under a drip emitter before planting or at the edge of a spray irrigated area a few hours after watering. If the soil is moist to a depth of 12 in. after a 30 min. irrigation cycle, you can then set the timer to run as long as needed for the depth the plants require. On slopes, you may need to repeat shorter cycles to prevent runoff, especially when using sprinklers or other high volume irrigation equipment. Mulches Choose mulches that are compatible with the plants and conditions in the garden. Organic mulches can improve the soil quality for plants that prefer humusy soil. Gravel mulches can help prevent crown rot in plants that require well‑drained soil. Mulches in runoff areas should be heavy and coarse enough to withstand the flow of water during storms. In windy areas, mulches should be coarse or shredded to limit blowouts. Apply mulches as deeply as possible to reduce evaporation, buffer heat and cold, and suppress weeds. On open areas 4 to 6 in. of mulch is ideal. Around larger trees and shrubs, 4 in. is ideal, while around smaller plants, start with 2 to 3 in. and renew the mulch as plants grow. Maintenance Mow as often as needed to keep the grass at its most robust height without cutting more than 1/3 off at one mowing. The native warm season grasses such as blue grama and buffalograss should be kept at least 4 in. tall during the growing season. Tall turf‑type fescue should be mowed 3 in. high, and bermudagrass can be kept 1 1/2 to 2 in. high. Fertilize, water, and prune only as much as needed to keep plants healthy and blooming. Water plants as often as needed to acclimate them to the garden and encourage vigorous root growth. Work toward establishing balanced growth by gradually decreasing the frequency of watering and increasing the depth that the water penetrates so that plants root as extensively as possible. Nitrogen and iron are the elements most likely to be unavailable in New Mexico soils. Xeric plants that are well adapted to our native soils may need small amounts of supplemental nitrogen until they develop an extensive root system. Plants that are not as well‑adapted as desert natives may require regular supplements OF nitrogen and iron throughout their garden life. While compost is not a direct source of plant nutrients, it is alive with micro‑organisms that support plant growth and make nutrients more available. Monitor pest activity and only intervene when there is potential for damage. Introduce biological controls to limit pest populations. Use chemical controls as a last resort, and choose controls specific to the pest. Routine use of broad spectrum pesticides destroys the beneficial insects that help balance harmful parasites.
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